CYCLING POSTURE
By. Tariq Ahmad Khan BEPD. MPED. (K.U)Most of the time we mistake the rules for sitting and standing with rules of a good cycling posture. While riding a cycle, the back must be arched, like a bridge. This is because the posture has to enable and let the body cope with jolts that result from road irregularities.

Correct cycling posture must facilitate the pedaling action. If the back is properly arched, bumps will cause it to flex slightly; this is harmless. If you ride swaybacked, bumps will cause the back to bow even farther in the forward direction, which can lead to severe lumbar pain.

Many inexperienced cyclists adopt a posture which allows their upper bodies to be supported entirely by their bones. This has the advantage that it requires no muscular effort, but can lead to discomfort or injury when road shocks are transmitted through the rigid bones. This discomfort may affect the back, hands, wrists, shoulders or neck.

So here are the main points to remember while on a cycle:
The back should be arched, like a bridge.

The elbows should be slightly bent, not straight and locked.

The shoulders should be pushed forward so that the muscles in the front of the chest help carry the weight of the upper body. Many cyclists make the error of letting their upper spine dangle forward, held up by the collar bones.

Rolling the shoulders forward counteracts the bending of the arms, resulting in the same general angle of the upper body as a relaxed, bone-supported posture provides, but with the resiliency of muscles providing shock absorption.


USING CYCLE GEARS
Anzil Mukhtar Qadimi BEPD.International Rider

What are Gears and how are they useful?

In walking up a hill, your pace will become shorter and your forward movement slower, while in walking down a hill, your pace will become longer and your movement quicker. If you tried walking up a steep hill without slowing down, you would rapidly become exhausted. However, on a bicycle, you don't slow down the speed of your legs, but you gear down to reduce the amount of pressure you have to apply to the pedals. So a cyclist going up a hill and down a hill may be spinning his legs at the same pace and making the same effort, but the bike travels a shorter distance with every turn of the crank while going uphill and a longer distance with every turn of the crank while going down. The cyclist on the uphill gives up speed to save effort, the same as the person walking up a hill. The cyclist even has an advantage over the walker: because his legs are moving faster, the blood flow is better, and thus he doesn't have as much fatigue.

Multi-speed gears allow you to climb hills comfortably that might force you to stand up and "pump" or even get off and push if you were riding a one-speed. They also allow you to go faster downhill or with the wind at your back.

Pedaling Speed Every cyclist has an ideal pedaling speed, and an ideal amount of resistance from the pedals. When you are pedaling at your ideal pedaling speed, you are putting out the greatest amount of power that you are able to sustain efficiently. You select pedaling speed by shifting gears. The gear needed to allow your "ideal" pedaling speed will depend on the slope of the road, the wind conditions, and your own condition at any given time.

High or Low?

"Higher" gears put more resistance on the pedals. If you select a gear that is too high for the conditions, it will force you into a slower pedaling speed.

Pedaling slower than your ideal cadence is wasteful of energy. You also run a higher risk of muscle strains and joint damage, particularly to the knees and hips.

"Lower" gears make the pedals easy to turn, so it becomes easier to spin to a fast pedaling speed.

Pedaling faster than your ideal cadence can allow you to generate an extra burst of speed, but you will tire yourself out too soon if you try to maintain an excessively fast cadence.

Inexperienced cyclists often pedal at a cadence that is too slow, (too high a gear.) They sometimes think that this is better exercise, because they have to push harder on the pedals. This is an illusion.

"Pushing" vs. "Spinning"

"Pushing" a high gear at a slow pedaling speed is like power lifting. It is good for building up muscle mass and bulking up your legs, but it does little for your heart or lungs, and you can hurt yourself if you overdo it.

"Spinning" a lower gear at a rapid pedaling speed is more like swimming. The rapid motion, with many repetitions makes the legs supple and flexible, it is highly aerobic, and the light pressure that goes with this style reduces wear and tear on the joints. With practice "spinning" becomes easier and more comfortable.

Securing your feet Toe clips or "clipless" pedals make it easier to spin effectively. They also enhance safety, because they keep your feet from slipping off of the pedals. They take a bit of getting used to, but experienced cyclists find them invaluable.



BICYCLE MAINTENANCE
GH. Rasool Kawa BEPD.(J&K). MEPD.(Patiyala) NIS (Patiyala)

Bicycle maintenance tips

Regular maintenance is the most crucial factor in ensuring the well being and longevity of your bicycle. Quick inspections done everyday can save you expensive repairs later. Here are some quick checks for you to do before using the bicycle.

Tyres Tyres should be inflated only upto the rate pressure recommended. Always use a pressure gauge to insure proper pressure. Inspect for cuts, bulges or tears and remove nails, glass or stones if any on the tyre. Do not ride when the tyre looks damaged.

Brakes Brakes must be checked regularly for your safety depends on it. Check your brake pads for wear. If the ridges in your brake pads are entirely worn down, replace them immediately. Make sure the brake pad do not rub against the tyre or dive into the spokes, they should merely hit the rim. Make sure your hand brakes travel at least 1 inch between the bar and lever when applied.

Cranks and chain Crank bolts should be tight and chain should not be worn down. Remove dirt from chain using a cloth and later grease it holding the bicycle upside down. Move the pedals you’re your hand while lightly running the cloth to remove excess grease (which will otherwise attract and accumulate dirt). If the chain does not sit well on its cassette it might need an adjustment.

Take it out for a ride Best way to check if your bicycle is “feeling well”, take it out for a ride. See if the ride feels good. The brakes and gears should “listen” to you and do your bidding. Ensure you’re your bicycle is able to stay in gear and is able to shift to low or high gear smoothly. If you hear some rankling sounds, lift your bicycle and give it a good shake and look out for falling broken parts. Get a thorough check up done immediately.

Bicycle Care during rainy season Rainy seasons come hard on both the biker and the bicycle . Slippery roads and humid conditions make riding difficult. One must look out for problems such as rusting, hardening of cycle joints and slipperiness due to poor tyre condition. Here are some tips for a thorough monsoon checkup.

Rims

Aluminum rims are safer and better than steel as brake pads grip aluminum rims better.

Tires

Fat tires have better traction. If your tyre is less than 1 1/4 inch wide then use them in an under inflated condition on wet streets. Also use tires with a deep tread pattern.

Salt and rust damage Wipe your frame, rims, spokes, and grease your chain. You can use a toothbrush for hard-to reach parts.

Fenders Plastic fenders are very good and inexpensive. But make sure they are installed properly, as they can break if installed incorrectly.

Bearing Damage Always put your bicycle in a dry place after riding in inclement weather. Allow the bearings to dry.

Brakes Do not allow grime to build up on brake pads, which will make them squeak or scratch your rims. Run a rag between each pad and the rim and keep them clean. Occasionally remove the wheel and check pads for wear.




CHOOSING A CYCLE
Umer Nabi international Rider


It is very important to choose the right cycle by your body structure and needs. This is not just to make your cycling experience better; it is also to minimize the potential for injury, discomfort and diluted performance. Read on more to get to your best cycling experience from the range of cycles we sell.

The cycle should be easy to use

Whatever your age, it is important that the cycle should not be a strain to ride. The cycle should never ‘work against you’ or ‘make you work harder’.

Analysis of Need

What are you buying your bicycle for?

Is it for kids?

Is it for Adventure

Is it for using within the city?

Is it for fitness?

The Optimal Riding Position

Just as there is an optimal position for any form of exercise, there is an optimal position for cycling that one must adhere to. And remember that everyone’s best position is unique. You have to sit on the cycle and ride to get to yours.



Try this first

AIR BIKING



Which is your best / comfortable position to cycle? Take a photograph of yourself if possible and move on to the next step. Saddle Climb

Fit the Bike

Draw some dots on the following locations: Wheelbase, Pedal axles, bottom bracket, saddle (point of contact), hub axles, stem/steerer, hbar clamp, hoods, tops, drops, and fork rake,

Corresponding with: ankle, knee, hip, lower back, upper back, base of neck, shoulder balls, temple, elbow, wrist….

Your image would look like this:



These dots are the COORDINATES for your personal, optimal cycling position. They plot important points on the rider as well as on the bike. The theory now is that if we "CONNECT THESE DOTS" with a bike frame, components, and other gear…we have found the optimal bicycle and it’s configuration for the rider.



This will help you either find the right cycle or help you adjust seating so that your position is always optimal. Click here to know more about the 3 triangle theory.

The feel

The next step is actually riding the cycle and getting ‘a feel’ of it. Even though you have a ‘blueprint’ of what your optimal cycle is, try many handlebar positions and seating heights before finally setting one.

Proper Arch and ankle support



These 4 graphics illustrates the importance of proper arch and ankle support during cycling. A drop in arch support in non-supported shoes causes inefficiency, discomfort, loss of power and potential injury.



Longitudinal foot position with the ball of the foot above the pedal axle.



Ankling is in fact rolling off the foot during the pedal stroke.



Correct alignment is illustrated. Any degree of mis-alignment in the foot or ankle immediately travels up to the knee and hips.



More on the 3 Triangles

A bike frame is a simple geometric structure made of two triangles. They’re commonly called the FRONT triangle (BLUE) and the REAR triangle (YELLOW). Once the frame is assembled into a full bicycle and a rider mounts it, a THIRD triangle appears (GREEN). This third triangle is formed by the stem clamp, handlebar clamp, front axle and fork rake. The proper set up of this third triangle and understanding its dynamic effects on the bike’s performance is crucial in the fitting process.

It is extremely important to balance the rider onto these three "triangles" perfectly to maximize comfort, stability, efficiency and other important riding characteristics.